Journal
Where to eat, when to go, and what most guides leave out.
September 6, 2026 · 3 min read
Getting here by train, and how to buy the ticket
The Afrosiyob from Tashkent takes two hours and sells out. Buy early; here is how.
August 30, 2026 · 4 min read
Where we actually eat in Samarkand
Not the places on the tourist map. Six addresses, and what to order at each.
August 21, 2026 · 5 min read
When to come to Samarkand, month by month
April and October are the honest answers. Here is what the other ten months are actually like.